Martina’s New Wheels

Back in February, as part of our project research, the team and I travelled to Wiaga to meet a local women’s group to find out more about the Feok Festival. We’ve visited a number of women’s groups in the district to learn about how the groups are involved in the Feok and find out their thoughts on the participation of PWDs (people with disabilities), as we aim to include them in future festivals. It was an insightful meeting and the women of Wiaga were very warm and welcoming.

There was one woman in particular that stood out in the meeting. Her name was Martina, a young mother from Wiaga who was unable to use her legs. She sat with crutches beside her and a baby on her lap, who was often passed around. She was very vocal in the group, voicing her opinion on the Feok Festival and PWDs whilst laughing and joking. Martina was very positive, which was refreshing to see, and I later found out that she also works as a seamstress.

Considering her physical ability, whilst having to raise a child and go to work, I truly admired her positive attitude. Unlike a small number of PWDs that we have met, Martina had a fantastic ‘get up and go’ attitude. It made me realise that most of us take things for granted and moan and worry about the silliest things. Life on crutches alone with a baby cannot be easy.  

At the end of the meeting the women approached us to thank us and say goodbye, whilst Martina approached our national volunteer, Festus, to tell him about her mobility bike. Speaking in Buli, she told Festus that her bike had been broken for sometime and she cannot use it, making travelling and day-to-day tasks difficult. Festus acknowledged her request for us to help her, whilst she thanked us (in English) for visiting and said goodbye. 

We’ve had a lot of requests from disabled (and able bodied) people when visiting the different community groups in the Builsa District. We’ve visited a number of disabled peoples organisations, mental health organisations, schools and women’s groups who have all made requests. Some inform us of the problems they face and the resources they need, whilst others reel off a wish list of wheelchairs, stair lifts and mini buses.

Although we would obviously love to help with the said items, they all cost money - a lot of money. We do record these requests, which can be discussed at a later date, however, CBR, the organisation we work with, don’t have the money either. This is when I had a light bulb moment after hearing Martina’s plea.

Martina's new wheels!

I decided that I would pay for her bike to be fixed. If I brought the issue up with CBR it would have sat in a long queue of other requests and may have never been resolved. Knowing her story and having met her I decided that I wanted to help.

The following week en route to Fubisi, we asked our driver, Kwame, to make a stop off in Wiaga so I could visit Martina’s home and see what work her bike needed. After asking directions from pupil at a near by school, we finally found her at her home; a dingy concrete room filled with cooking utensils, with a large mosquito net filling half of the room with her baby daughter sleeping soundly beneath it. At the back of the room, underneath an old wheel chair, cloth and crutches sat the mobility bike. Coated in dust, it was obvious that it hadn’t been in use for a long time. Three years in fact, as Martina told us. She said that it was a gift from a group of Canadian volunteers, yet the wheels and chain needed replacing. 

We took her number and Festus contacted a repairman who later met us in Sandema town to buy the parts needed. In total, to repair and buy the new parts cost only 83 Ghana cedi, which is around £28.62. I spend that in a heartbeat whilst shopping in Leeds, so it was the easiest (and by far the best) £28.62 that I’ve ever spent.

Tyre shopping

Last weekend I received a text from Festus to hear that the bike had been repaired and was returned to Martina. I was so excited to see her on it so I asked if Kwame could drive me back to Wiaga for me to visit her. I met her earlier this week and she was so happy. The bike looked fantastic with its shiny new wheels. She got in it and cycled around to show me and kindly posed for some photos. 

Martina and her daughter

She told me that she was very grateful that I had it fixed for her as she had her mobility back. She can now travel around with ease and more importantly, take her daughter with her, who can sit beside her in the chair. In the past, Martina had to leave her daughter with someone else whilst she struggled with her crutches. Now, her little girl can travel with her wherever she goes.

It has been amazing to have had the opportunity to help Martina and to actually see the difference it has made to her life. I’m grateful that I’ve had the chance to come to Ghana and to not only help people as part of our project but to also help others in the community. I’ll certainly never forget Martina and her new set of wheels.

- Jenna

Is it better for a Devloping Country to Develop through Trade or Aid?

 

Developing through Trade will help the economy in many different ways, trade will increase the exports of a country which will in turn help create jobs and these jobs will generate income.  These incomes will have many benefits for people as it will raise their standards of living and will increase investment in further production creating more jobs and increasing productivity. As incomes increase this will also trickle down to the poor as more jobs become available to them. Ghana also has a weak currency the Cedi which is usually seen as a bad thing but in terms of exports this is good as it means that their exports seem less expensive compared to other countries and they are therefore more competitive on an international level.  Currently Ghana’s main exports are oil, gold, cocoa and it currently exports France 19.1%, US 8.6%, UK 4.7%. However Trade Blocs such as the EU put tariffs on imports, therefore making it difficult for countries like Ghana to become internationally competitive.  This is against the idea of free trade and is making it difficult for countries like Ghana to trade internationally.

 Aid can take many forms; it could be relief aid, one government giving money to another, an NGO giving money to those in poverty or training people in skills which will help them develop. It is often the case that developing nations don’t have the funds to build infrastructure and infrastructure is vital for a country to develop.

Overall I believe that the best way for a country to develop is through a combination of trade and aid.  Trade is vital for a country to develop many African countries have stumbled on the development ladder due to problems such as aids, civil war, corrupt governments which all hinder a countries development. Once a country has reached a certain level of development then I believe it is right to cut off aid as they can now cater for themselves and that aid can go elsewhere where it is needed.  Many African nations still rely heavily on Aid and they desperately need it.  

 

The Foster Home

On Friday the group of International Service ICS volunteers who are working with the charity RAINS in Tamale, came to visit Sandema. We decided to take them to the Foster home where our Dutch friend Mieke volunteers.

Some Friday nights at the Foster home, devotion time after their meal is spent singing, drumming and dancing.  We have made friends with many of the children, staff, and volunteers there, and they have made us feel so welcome.  As a treat, we brought ice cream for everyone!  The Tamale team had had a very long day and looked tired when they first arrived but after an ice cream they were up and dancing. Ben particularly made a friend in Gilbert, one the youngest boys at the home making him his dance partner.  Gilbert is one of the quietest of the children at the foster home, but he would quietly take Ben's hand and demonstrate the dances to him; Gilbert is a much better dancer than Ben (sorry Ben!).

We had a great time copying all of the dances which the children taught us. They are much more energetic (and fitter!) than us than us though! My dance partner was Solomon; when we did a dance which was similar to doing “Burpees” he managed to do two in the time which I had struggled to do 1. 
Amelia and Charlotte from the home once again made us made us all look on in amazement at the speed, and gracefulness of their dancing. 

This was another truly fantastic night which was full of laughter; I’m sure that the Tamale group really enjoyed it. We always feel welcome at the foster home and the children who live their always greet us with a smile and a big hug. We look forward to our next visit and we will really miss all of the children when we leave!

Tonight Matthew, I’m going to be…. Eoghan

CBR, the fantastic organisation that we’re working with in Sandema, do lots of work for the people of Builsa. As well as working with and improving the lives of people with disabilities, they also offer support in a number of other areas including health and education. Last week, we had the opportunity to assist the CBR staff with a health screening at a school in Bechonsa. CBR carry out regular screenings in schools across the district to identify health issues and disabilities amongst the children.

We travelled to Bechonsa in the trusty CBR vehicle with project officers Joseph and Francis, along with staff from the Builsa District Hospital. With the car full, Tracy, Poppy, Will and I were left to sit in the trunk with Joseph. It was a little bit of a squeeze, but cosy all the same.

We arrived at the school to be greeted by a sea of children, aged between three and eleven, who were sat patiently waiting for their check ups. The CBR team and the medical staff set up in an empty classroom, where the children would be examined by Joseph, who specialised in physiotherapy, a physiatrist and an eye specialist.

We were each designated a role to help out; Tracy was with the children, sending them one by one to be examined, Poppy and Will made a tally of male and females who were checked, and I waited by the doorway assisting the children in and out of the makeshift medical room.

The doctor will see you now...

 It was an enjoyable experience, as it was something none of us had ever done before. However, it was upsetting to see the appearance of some of the children, as some were missing hair, revealed bloated stomachs and bowed legs. Luckily, no major medical cases were found and the majority of problems, such as eye infections stemmed from a lack of hygiene. This, I found frustrating, as it is such a simple task that can be prevented. Although in this area of Bechonsa, as mentioned in Tracy’s previous post ‘How much can £10.50 get you in Ghana’, the closest source of water is 10k away and ‘having a shower comes secondary to drinking’.

The lack of hygiene issue was noted and brought up by the eye specialist, who complained to the teacher for not having a health specialist in the school to teach the children basic hygiene routines. During my time in Ghana, I’ve realised that it’s the little things that make the big differences.

One of the pupils having an eye test

 In total the health specialists examined over 200 children. It was a great insight into different areas of CBR and was lovely to have the opportunity to work with and meet other staff members and the children.

200+ kids down and we decided to pack up to leave. Back into the trunk we went for the long journey back, frying in the heat as we sat bare to the sun. I can honestly say it’s the hottest I’ve been (which I’m currently doubting right now, as I sit here typing this). We all alighted with a rosy glow and in some cases a healthy looking tan. I’m looking at you William, or should I say Eoghan!

As Poppy and I sat in the trunk with out backs to the car, Tracy and Will sat at the opposite end, getting the worst of the dust that blew out from behind them. Mixed with wind and sweat, Will looked like a different man once we arrived back in Sandema. His hair was stood upright, embedded with sweat and dust, giving it a sandy/ginger tint, and his face looked like he had a spray tan as it was coated in dust, sitting heavy in his eyebrows. It was hilarious!

If you’re able to view a photo right now, count yourself lucky (and I’ll probably owe Will 10 Ghana cedi for allowing me to upload it). If not, imagine Dale Winton with blonde hair, aged around 70. Poppy and I christened Will’s new look, Eoghan [say it how it's spelt for added effect], after the failed X-Factor contestant, Eoghan Quigg, as he developed a camp Irish accent that went with his new look perfectly.

Introducing Ghana's Irish mega star... Eoghan.

- Jenna 

P.S Many thanks to Will-i-am for letting me finally upload Eoghan

Elephants? Where?

Charles Taylor...

On the 5^th of March we visited Charles Taylor in Chuchuliga, a blind guitarist who has taken part in the Feok previously. We have heard a lot about Charles as he is very popular and well known within the Builsa district. He was incredibly welcoming and positive about the project and his involvement. Charles Taylor and his band partner sang us two songs with their homemade guitar and painted calabash, being used as a drum – they sang one song in English which went something along the lines of “it’s a happy day, call my friend, I want to speak to her, it’s a happy day”. He was an inspiring man who didn’t once mention his disability as a hindrance, only saying he would like to make an album to sell! Once we had interviewed him, he very generously gave us a chicken! Absolutely terrified about how to hold it at first, I began holding it like a baby, to our drivers’ amusement. We became quite attached to Charlie the Chicken as he fell asleep on my knee on the drive home. Once we were home, we were at a loss of what to do with Charlie! So naturally we gave him water and cornflakes and stuck him on the veranda (which he escaped from) luckily, Alpha male Festus managed to grab him just as he made a break for freedom over the compound wall. We fashioned a lead and let Charlie chill out for a few hours before the inevitable happened… we had a lovely chicken stew that night (poor Charlie!)

Time flies when you're having fun!

I can’t believe it is March already.  It seems only a few weeks ago the four of us UK volunteers arrived in Sandema, with Festus, eager and excited to start a new project.  And now, 8 weeks later Jenna, Poppy, and Will are on the countdown to departure day.

In the past 8 weeks, the team have visited 13 Chiefs and their entourages of elders, and sub-chiefs; 4 women’s groups, 5 Disabled People’s Organisations, 4 schools, spoken to many people at the District Assembly, attended a local Feok festival, and met a famous (blind) guitarist (well, famous in Builsa!).  That doesn’t include appearances on the radio or any of the things we have done that are non-project related! The month of February disappeared in a blur, interspersed with trips to sit on crocodiles and hang out with Elephants and Baboons in Mole National Park.  We have been sang to, danced for, had our accents laughed at, teased for our names (Jenna means eggs in Buli, and we are forever explaining that Poppy is not a small dog!), and had our hands shook by hundreds of wonderful, and gracious people.

There are only 2 and a half weeks left to work on the project (the last week will be spent debriefing, packing, saying goodbyes, and travelling to Accra).  We have a few tasks remaining, including visiting St John’s Integrated Senior High School, in Navrongo (a school which welcomes children with disabilities alongside their able-bodied colleagues) and Gbeogo School for the Deaf, in Tongo, Bolgatanga.  As this team draws to a close I am starting to think in more detail about the next team’s activities, and so these visits to these schools will help formulate ideas and identify ways in which we can develop Feok-based activities for people with disabilities to participate in.  I want the current team to be involved in kick-starting this process so that there is some form of overlap between teams; it will almost be like handing over the Olympic flame as it journeyed across the UK, and visiting these schools will certainly help.  This team have been instrumental in laying the groundwork for the LIFE project, and will be key figures in the remaining weeks in advocating for improvements to the festival, and more importantly, for the inclusion of people with disabilities.  (The next team will (hopefully) build on this by introducing some disability-friendly, and Feok friendly, activities to the Builsa district.)

Our main remaining task, then, is to bring all of the Chiefs, Assemblymen and women, Disabled People’s Organisations, schools, women’s groups, key opinion leaders, and inspirational people with disabilities together and report our findings.  This is both incredibly exciting but also quite terrifying.  On the whole there has been a great deal of positivity directed towards the inclusion of people with disabilities from everyone we have spoken to, and I don’t anticipate there being any resistance from the Traditional Council and District Assembly to the development of activities (I do anticipate them telling us we can do what we want, just don’t expect them to pay for it!).  However, for there to be any point in including people with disabilities into this festival, there are some issues regarding the festival itself that need to be addressed.  It is this bit that makes me nervous.

The Paramount Chief of the Builsa District, until 2006, was a man named Azantilow.  He was incredibly well-liked and respected, not only in the Builsa District, but across Ghana, and around the world.  The Queen and the Royal Family were apparently big fans also.  There is a story that Azantilow refused to die until he had spoken to the Queen one last time, and so an ex-pat NGO worker was drafted in to imitate the Queen to give Azantilow her best wishes.  Some versions of this story say the ex-pat was made to wear a wig, but Azantilow had gone blind in his last few years, so I’m not sure how true this bit is.  Azantilow, glad to have received the Queen one final time, died the very next day, aged 106. Unfortunately, the responses from our interviews, questionnaires, and focus groups suggest that the Feok festival has never been the same again, and since Azantilow’s death, there have been several disputes and conflicts between the current Paramount Chief and the Builsa Community Chiefs.  Whilst we do not necessarily aim to address these issues at our meeting in a few weeks, they are something we intend to raise and hope to set the wheels in motion for resolving them.  I’m just not sure how happy the current Paramount Chief, Azantilow’s son, is going to be when we raise them.  Mum, I might be home in a few weeks if the Chief doesn’t like what we have to say!

So, all the sections of the report have been written and we are now in the process of editing it all together, and putting together our conclusions and recommendations. Tomorrow will be a big planning day for the meeting as we finalise venues, catering, guest lists and start work on the meeting agenda!  It might be the last two weeks, but this team still have a lot to do!!

The Bolgatanga Craft Village

While spending a weekend in Bolga with other ICS volunteers, who are working in partnership with TradeAid, we visited the Bolgatanga Craft Village. 

The Craft Village was a short drive from the Bus station in Bolga. It was an open area which was surrounded by small shops with lots of Ghanaian crafts on display. We wandered around all of the shops comparing the items in each shop and looking at all of the beautiful hand-made crafts. There were piles and piles of woven baskets all in bright African colours, carved wooden masks, leather bags, bracelets and much more. There was so much it took us over an hour to look around the whole craft village and then we went back to particular shops which had items which we liked. 

Jenna definitely bought the purchase of the day when she bargained down a wooden table which had African markings carved into it. The craft village was a fantastic experience where we were able to buy real Ghanaian goods instead of Western goods which fill some of the shops in the cities. 

How much can £10.50 get you in Ghana?

Throughout our visits to Chiefs, their Elders, women’s groups, community groups and opinion leaders to discuss the integration of people with disabilities into the Feok festival, poverty has been highlighted as a fundamental challenge to our work, but more importantly to the lives of people with disabilities, and the general public.  This week we visited Bechonsa, a very rural community in the Builsa district, and we helped with a children’s health screening.  We accompanied a physiotherapist, eye specialists, and psychiatrist to a kindergarten and primary school where each child was assessed and any health issues identified.  So many of the children had eye problems (as well as skin infections, and ringworm amongst other things) which, according to the eye specialist, was as a direct result of a lack of hygiene; these children were just not bathing on a regular occasion and so all the dust and dirt was gathering and collecting in their eyes, and staying there for days, maybe weeks, at a time.  A simple solution to this problem is just to wash more. However, when we visited Bechonsa’s Chief, Sub-Chiefs, and Elders, they highlighted that the closest water source was 10k away.  If obtaining water is an issue, then it will be used sparingly….having a shower comes secondary to drinking.  One of their requests to us, 5 volunteers, was to fund and build a dam.  No problem – let me check my bank account and with the £10.50 I have in there, I will get right on it.  In order to build a dam, we need money.  Lots of money. 

If money was no object, there is an awful lot that we could do in the Builsa district, but unfortunately that is not the case at all.  All that considered, the aim of our project is to advocate for the inclusion of people with disabilities into the local Feok festival.  Just from speaking with one Chief and discussing the issue of social inclusion encouraged him to make more of an effort engaging people with disabilities.  In early February, the Kadema Chief was a pioneer in the Builsa district and people with disabilities played a large role in his community festival and were consulted during the planning.  No money was involved in this development – it was as a result of having a conversation.  Are we hindered in our work by having limited funds?  Does foreign aid actually solve any of the problems that these rural communities face?

There is an argument that foreign aid is the solution to poverty.  Numerous international agreements, including those related to the MDGs, encourage UN member states to pledge 0.7% of their gross national product to international aid and development.  However, foreign aid has been shovelled into Africa for decades and yet poverty is still rife in much of the continent; Ghana included*.

As we have conducted our project, we have discovered that disability is not aggressively discriminated against, but people just don’t know how to manage disability.  We have had an overwhelming response from school children, women, elders, Chiefs, and the general public, that there is no taboo for people with disabilities to participate in the Feok, but they just have no idea how they are supposed to participate.  Money is not necessarily the solution to this problem, but education and advocacy.  Of course, to educate the public and to advocate for the rights, needs, and capabilities of people with disabilities money is required.  For the International Service volunteers to be in Ghana, they needed to raise money, and the projects are part-funded by DFID; money does indeed make the world go round.  When we discuss “foreign aid” it is more a reference to Overseas Development Assistance; money given from one government to another.  Unfortunately, there are many accounts of where these funds have been whittled away to the benefit of elites, used heavily in corruption, or have not been appropriated suitably to combat poverty. 

We have discussed before, in this blog, that a huge point to this ICS scheme is so that UK volunteers and international partners can share experiences and exchange knowledge.  Here in Ghana, we have often heard “you will learn from us, and we will learn from you”.  I believe it is this philosophy that is missing from international development, particularly in regards to money.  There is absolutely no point throwing money at a country, a continent, or a project, if there is no effective way to manage that money, or manage whatever it is that emerges as a result of that money.  We could build a dam in Bechonsa, which could provide a better water source to the community, but it won’t necessarily put a stop to all of the health problems the children we met last week are facing.  An investment of time and an exchange of knowledge is perhaps the only way that can resolve those development issues; providing information and education to parents, teachers, and children on basic hygiene practices will go a long way to facilitating better health care.

There are many reasons why poverty exists in the world, and it is not entirely as a consequence of corruption, mismanagement or poor governance. Climate change, and its negative consequences, overpopulation, conflicts, and geography are just some of the many factors which contribute to the prolongation of poverty in the world today.  Foreign aid can indeed have a huge impact on resolving these issues, however, a lot can also be achieved with a little bit of gumption.  Don’t think I’m naïve, I have studied well the issues involved in humanitarianism and international development, and I am fully aware that money and financial assistance is a crucial component of making a change, but we also need to realise that development can occur through other means too.

*Ghana, by all accounts, is considered one of the success stories of Africa, and in the South of the country much progress has been made in terms of development.  However, in the North, where International Service projects are based, a large percentage of the population are classed as living below the poverty line.

52% of people living in Ghana's norther region are living below the poverty line ($1 USD a day)

70% of poverty in upper region

Only 66.5% of children are enrolled in school in northern Ghana, compared to 89.5% Ghana average.

N.B These statistics were shared with volunteers during a training session, and are believed to come from UN.org.

IS Naab

On Thursday 14^th February we were visited by the IS “chief”, sub-chiefs and elders (I'm not saying who is who!) Martin, Rosie, Patience and Chrys – lovely visit for Valentine’s Day! As their last call on their whistle stop tour of Ghana, we felt it only right to show them the sights of Sandema, 5 minutes later we went for lunch. I joke, I joke – Sandema has lots to offer in; sights, things to do and people to meet!

Talking with Rosie and Martin and telling them about Sandema, our project and life in Ghana really made us realise how lucky we are. We’re past our half-way point and I can’t believe how fast the time is going and how many things we still have left to do! A lot of our questions were answered and we are now in a position to make the most out of our final weeks in Ghana (please don’t make me go home!). In honour of our guests we learnt to make groundnut soup, my favourite Ghanaian dish – especially when made under Maxwell’s wife’s supervision! We stewed our guinea fowl and rolled our own rice balls, all on an open fire. Chrys is originally from Kanjarga (a community very close to Sandema) so we found a new person to practice our Buli on. So, now we have had our half way meeting I am starting to realise how close our trip home is. I am excited to see family, of course, and I was very excited for cheese (but we’ve now found that in Bolga) but I think I will hit the Ghana blues hard very quickly once I'm home.

- Poppy

Music to my ears...

One of my favourite things about Ghana is the music. Anyone who knows me will tell you I love pre-2005 music, I sing it all the time and would live in the 90s for the rest of my life if the chance came about. Ghana constantly plays ‘the classics’ to any 90s born kid, I'm in musical heaven! We were treated to 7 songs IN A ROW by Miley Cyrus the other day on the radio, I appreciated this and I know my 13 year old cousin would have done too, even if no one else did! I mentioned in a previous post that our driver, Kwame has agreed to marry me even though he doesn’t know my name yet and just calls me “wife”, he called Will, Poppy the other day (the thought was there). Anyway, our relationship has now moved on to the next level – mix tapes!  Myself, Jenna and Tracy had a wonderful time picking some tunes that we thought Kwame would like to listen to while cruising around Sandema, not being able to settle for less than 60 top tunezzzz, Kwame received three jam packed full CDs.

We’re in a powerful position being able to predict what song might be big next in Ghana (I predict Steps as currently Barbie Girl is huge) however, this knowledge can come with its hardships. My heart broke a little bit upon seeing Festus’ face when we told him Westlife had broken up, on the upside they’re not due to break up for at least 7 years yet in Ghana. Westlife are held in the highest musical position here, they haven’t heard of The Beatles but Westlife are HUGE. It was rumoured that when One Direction visited Accra they just kept getting asked if they were the Gods, Westlife. Here is a selection of some of our top picks from the Kwame compilation –

1)      Westlife – World of our own

2)      B*Witched – Blame it on the weatherman

3)      R Kelly – I believe I can fly

4)      Robbie Williams – Let me entertain you

5)      Justin Bieber – Baby (the acoustic version – of course)

6)      Spice Girls – 2 become 1

7)      Taylor Swift – You belong with me

8)      Beyonce – Love on top

9)      Elvis Presley – Love me tender

10)   Lighthouse Family – High

As you can see, Ghanain’s love two things when it comes to music; cheese and love (we threw Robbie in there for good measure), I will be posting Kwame’s verdicts as soon as possible…! People constantly seem impressed with my lyrical knowledge not realising how many years I’ve had to learn the lyrics to these songs that are so new to Ghana. I think Will doing Ken’s bit in Barbie Girl sent them over the edge, it was just too perfect. Our taxi driver Joe is into slightly different music, think 50 Cent, G Unit, Shaggy and Eminem, did I mention I went through a phase of LOVING rap music? It just keeps getting better and better for me doesn’t it? This music can create a slightly awkward watching a sex scene with your parents atmosphere with its explicit content but who doesn’t enjoy cruising to a small northern village in Ghana to Shaggy’s “7 Days”? I know Team Sandema does.

 In short, I love Ghana, it allows me and Jenna to sing J Lo & LL Cool J’s “All I have” every day and be completely ahead of the music times, “your pride is what you had, baby girl I'm what you have…”

- Poppy

English is English...right?

During our time in Ghana, we have been learning some of the local language, Buli.  Poppy, in particular, is really quite good at Buli (although she really does have some competition from Jenna, who has possibly mastered 2 words of Buli…well done Jenna!! J).  In fact, Poppy was even told yesterday that she is 100% Ghanaian now – her Buli is that good!

Ghanaian English....

Not speaking the local language perfectly really shouldn’t have hindered us all that much though, as the official language of Ghana is English after all.  Well, it is Ghana’s version of English.  I think we initially had more trouble understanding some of the Ghanaian English than we did understanding Buli.

For the most part UK English and Ghana English are very similar – a tomato in Ghana is still a tomato in English. Nevertheless, despite the “common” language, there have been many a time when we have not had a clue as to what has been said, or have completely misunderstood what the person is saying to us!  In fact, I think it is fair to say we might have understood more if the person was speaking Buli!

So I thought we could share  a conversation we have often as we go about our business in Ghana (family and friends take note, we have adapted to this version very quickly and will most likely use it when we return home!):

Ghanaian: Yo, my sistah! Howzit?

Uk Volunteer: Hello, how are you?

Ghanaian: Yeah, actually, I’m good.  Where are you going?

UK Volunteer: We are going to the……

Phone rings

Ghanaian: Let me pick it…Hello (SHOUTING down the phone aggressively), Hello, HELLO?! Oh, good morning!

UK Volunteer: awkwardly stands and waits to finish their sentence

*During this entire time, the Ghanaian has been holding the UK volunteer’s hand

Ghanaian: (after finishing phone call) I’m going to go and come

UK Volunteer: Oh ok, should I wait? (as the Ghanaian walks off)

Ghanaian: A-HAAAA!

10 mins later, our Ghanaian friend returns just as the UK volunteer manages to spill water down themselves, stub a toe, or almost get run over by a motorbike

Ghanaian: Oh, sorry*.  Here, let me help.

UK Volunteer: Oh thank you

Ghanaian: Thank you for thanking me.

*It wasn’t at all their fault that I now look like I wet myself/broke a toe/died a tragic death – they are just sorry that that happened to me.

This version of English is actually quite charming, and we have now incorporated it into our daily speech!  Some other common phrases we have learned:

A-Haaaaa – You make this noise when you are agreeing with someone

Ei! (Said in a high pitched way!) – Oh my word!!

I’m coming – Woah, woah, woah, you have spoken to quickly and now I’m lost, but let me just recap and I’m sure I will have understood!

What will you take? – this is usually said in a restaurant/bar, and means “What can I get you/What do you want?”

Second day at Mole National Park

 
We woke in the tree house early on Sunday morning with tired eyes, stiff back and goose pimples. The night in the tree house can only be likened to sleeping rough but it was a great experience and we had a lot of laughs. As soon as we were up and ready we split into two groups and left for the walking safari. While on the walking safari the group that I was in were able to get really close to one elephant on its own while taking photo’s we heard an elephant in the distance stamping and raging. Karmal our guide said that it was an elephant charging on the other group, he then quickly pointed out some birds flying above. We were wondering about the other group and what this elephant was doing to them; Karmal had mentioned it like it was not a big deal but we weren’t so sure.

We made our way to the watering hole which was the highlight of the trip for me. There was 9 elephants bathing and drinking, we sat there just watching them moving slowly and gracefully in and out of the water.
The other group joined us at the watering hole and they all looked terrified. The elephant that charged them had stamped its feet, blown its trumpet and forced them to huddle together. Their only defence was their guide who stepped out in front of them and started waving his arms scaring the elephant back. This will definitely be a safari walk they will never forget!

We returned to the Mole Motel and quickly set off on our next activity after lunch which was a canoe ride of spotting birds. The canoe I was in, sat very low in the water and made the whole experience very nerve racking, especially when the water looked so dirty. The only strong swimmer in our boat was Katherine, Tolu can’t swim and Poppy and I are poor swimmers who resorted to yoga to calm our nerves. Shaun was our final crew member who remained unfazed by the level of the water next to the boat and the amount of water that was pouring into the boat. We saw a beautiful bright blue kingfisher which was sat on a branch watching over the river which was the highlight for me.
After the Canoe trip we returned to the motel, went for a quick dip in the pool and then we had to say goodbye to our friends from Bolga and Tamale who were going home.
 
We left Mole on Monday morning very early as 4am was the only time the MetroMass left Mole to Tamale. This day was to be the start of a very long day especially for me…
The MetroMass was comfortable and we were all getting some sleep until we were rudely awakened. We heard the driver having problems with his gears and there was a really strong smell of burning. A few minutes later a policeman was driving alongside the bus shouting to the driver to stop as the bus was on fire! Panic on the bus as we all evacuated. It was the back left hand tire which had caught fire, Ghanaian men from passing Lorries and from the bus began putting it out with fire extinguishers and soon the panic was over and we were sat waiting for another bus to pick us up.

The next stage of the journey was from Tamale to Bolga; we were cramped into a Tro Tro and began the next long journey. Jenna and I could not get comfortable and get to sleep as it was just too cramped but we were cool as they had put so much stuff in the back the doors were still slightly open allowing air to flow through #everycloud. Around 2 hours into this journey I began to feel very ill and actually vomited out of the window of the Tro Tro to the shock of all the Ghanaians. Everyone exited the Tro Tro so I could get off and get some air. All the girls were really nice to me and looked after me really well! When we arrived in Bolga we decided to get a taxi from Bolga to Sandema which was much more comfortable.

Overall this weekend was fantastic and one of the highlights of the whole trip for all of us despite illness.

Mole, Mole, Mole, Moleeee ahhh-ahhh-haaa

Last Friday we made the mammoth trip to Tamale in preparation for our visit to Mole! Expecting the worst from public transport we were pleasantly surprised with our metro mass bus, and our private trotro/mini bus seemed like absolute luxury! When we finally made it to Tamale and our group was a total of 15, we headed straight to the swimming pool for a quick dip and sunbathe before making the most of the western food available in Tamale – burger and chips!!

With only 4 single beds on offer in the Tamale palace it was always going to be a squeeze and rush for sleeping space, luckily the ‘Bolga Babes’ had bought their trusty foam so there was plenty of room for everyone (or at least there was for me, Jenna and Tracy who all managed to bag a bed – sorry Will). After a hot night we woke to start our trip to Mole, we all piled in to the minibus summer-holiday-style and took off! We arrived at Mole and straight away spotted the pool overlooking two watering holes and booked ourselves on to a jeep safari tour. We were split in to two groups. The jeep tour was incredible, aside from seeing a wide range of animals in their natural habitat we were also able to get very close to the elephant, ‘People’s Friend Number 2’ and see a croc – though this one was not sit able on!! We saw 13 elephants, baboons, antelope, crocodiles and an array of birds. Adam was friendly, funny and incredibly knowledgeable – knowing the scientific name for everything and anything you could point your finger at in the park, another thing you should know about Adam is that he loves his gun, he clicked it into position several times and even offered to let us hear the “noise of his weapon” to which we all squealed excitedly like 12 year old boys (this didn’t happen to our massive disappointment). The jeep safari cost only 10cd and was a fantastic 2 hours well spent, I would recommend to anyone to give it a go! Speak of recommendations…

That night, 11 of us intrepid explorers made our way into the park, in the dark, to what is known as ‘The Treehouse’ (not before filling up on more “burger cheese chip” of course, only just resisting “chicken carbon blue”). The tree house was amazing; it was in the middle of nowhere and had lovely sights and sounds of the local wildlife. We spent the evening playing two truths and a lie, some very exciting stories came to light, although I forget now which was the truth and which was a lie – Tippi’s Uncle IS the President of Korea isn’t he?! The phrase “if you don’t laugh, you cry” springs to mind and boy did we laugh, uncontrollably for some hours, scaring most of the wildlife away probably?

When we finally settled down for a cosy night’s sleep all we found were roll up mats and hard wooden floors/benches. The biggest thing we weren’t expecting however, was the now foreign feeling of cold, I mean freezing! Me and Will valiantly took a roll up mat each and a thin sloping bench and settled in for one of the most ridiculous night’s sleep ever – I say ridiculous because if you don’t laugh about it, you cry, right?! We all could not explain enough how comfy and relaxed we all were (!!!) Having said that, I would 100% visit the treehouse again. If you do go, take a hoody, some socks and a loaf of bread – sharing a granola bar between 11 people was some experience for breakfast. All this said, hearing/seeing baboons and hyenas in the middle of the night is quite spectacular and an experience everyone should try at least once!

- Poppy

Festus' thoughts on the UK volunteers......

My presumption of meeting cheeky ‘f**k you’ little kids from Europe as we see in movies turned around when these guys proved drunk with good manners and  addicted to please and thank you. I have so far lived my life as usual and normal with no adjustments even with ‘different people’ I mean people from different cultural background. It’s been all fun as we work (work and happens). It’s all been a kind of cultural exchange kind of thing, I learn from them as well as the do from me. It’s really shocking to see how others do things at the other part of the world in which you live. My most shocking moment is to see and taste food that has been cooked with wine (risotto). Let me say that was ‘crazy’ but I could see everyone enjoyed it most. I have been having good time with my team and all the others. I’m now a teacher as well as a student; teaching Buli and learning Yorkshire accent. Just got to know about the dynamo magician and the ping pong show; these are mind boggling and unbelievable. I must say my team members are cultured in manners that are truly Ghanaian and can easily adjust to make up where they fall short in terms of culture. I like my team so much.

Money makes the world go around?

Yes, financial aid is needed – I don’t think people can completely argue with that but is it the main solution? Arguably no. I can only talk of my own experience here in Sandema; mainly because our internet is pants so any sort of research is a no go but personal experience is more interesting anyway isn’t it?

We have now travelled to meet 13 chiefs in each of the Builsa districts; we’ve spoken to disabled people’s organisations (DPOs), women’s groups and schools. The one thing they all have in common? Their need for financial aid whether, it’s a dam, footballs, assistive devices or school uniforms, each and every group spoken to expressed a want or need for something material. I cannot disagree that all these things are needed, I also believe they would improve the lives of people who requested them but there is an argument for the power of speech; the power of knowledge. CBR, over the past few years has worked to set up these meeting groups and organisations where people can talk to each other and discuss their problems, this may be livelihood or health or depression, anything, a lot of these things can be improved just by talking and knowing you are not alone.

I look at our involvement in Kadema, as mentioned in a previous post the DPOs in Kadema were, for the first time, included in the local Feok festival. This didn’t cost any money, there was no financial aid given but this opportunity meant the inclusion into society for a group that has previously always been ignored. They were given an opportunity to showcase their crafts and in doing so improve their income. A proud moment for everybody involved, and nobody was required to pay for the experience. Enough of the dream world though, realistically money makes the world go round – money was needed for the implementation of the festival and was also needed for transport to get people to the Feok grounds. It’s a vicious cycle of needing something that isn’t always the answer.

Do people depend on and expect aid even if it’s not needed? We spoke to each group and clearly explained we are a research based project, we have no money to give and all we have to offer is our time and our findings. Each group still, in turn made their pleas for financial help and assistance. The children that live near us often ask for water, one girl even took a sneaky peak in our fridge and demanded mango. Are these people chancers? Do they believe us when we say we are just researching? Have people now begun to expect things off every NGO that walks into Ghana? I don’t know.  

We recently accompanied a screening in Bachonsa to try and determine and identify the early signs of disability in over 200 children. The eye specialist became quite irate with the headmaster upon handing out her umpteenth bottle of eye drops for eye infection. Why do these children not wash? It was the endless amounts of dirt in the children’s eyes that were causing these infections; these are so easily prevented if someone would just tell these children to wash! I’ve got a bit off track as I always seem to with these blogs but my vague/sitting on the fence point still stands. Yes, financial aid is key to ending global poverty but no, I don’t believe it is the single most important component in doing so, throwing money at charities can be a waste, having too much money thrown at some of the larger projects can be counter-productive. I see the fantastic work CBR does on such small funds and I can’t help but believe that passion and hard work is the main thing keeping CBR running and the main element in helping their clients.

- Poppy