Everyday LIFE in Sandema: Home Sweet Home

Our home is snuggled away in a quiet area of Sandema and only a 5 minute walk from work. Surrounded by greenery, we live in a pretty peaceful area with the only noise coming from the animals that roam around our house and the funeral music (drumming and singing) which is happening on a daily basis as it is the dry season.  

Smack bang in the middle of the compound is the kitchen, a cherished place for us, especially as we’re often reminded that Sandema Team 1 had no kitchen initially. Although, there's no oven or microwave we’ve become quite resourceful with what’s available to us, even making cake and burritos! See more on our Food blog post which will be coming soon!

Our dining area is where we are at one with nature, especially in the evenings. During our candlelight dinners we have the amazing opportunity to do some star gazing in the evenings (I’ve personally never seen so many stars) and have fights with the creepy crawlies who also join us at the dinner table (see our Animal blog post which will also be coming soon!).



Oh and we do have our occasional water fights (that’s Tracy, our team leader, who is in the process of drenching me when I’m busy posing for this picture).











This is my room in the compound and one of the smaller ones but admittedly the best one. A piece of advice for the next volunteers, bring noise cancelling earphones. It’s rained a few nights whilst we’ve been here and it can get quite loud which can be quite annoying when you’re trying to get some sleep.








- Roya

Tonight Matthew, I’m going to be…. Eoghan

CBR, the fantastic organisation that we’re working with in Sandema, do lots of work for the people of Builsa. As well as working with and improving the lives of people with disabilities, they also offer support in a number of other areas including health and education. Last week, we had the opportunity to assist the CBR staff with a health screening at a school in Bechonsa. CBR carry out regular screenings in schools across the district to identify health issues and disabilities amongst the children.

We travelled to Bechonsa in the trusty CBR vehicle with project officers Joseph and Francis, along with staff from the Builsa District Hospital. With the car full, Tracy, Poppy, Will and I were left to sit in the trunk with Joseph. It was a little bit of a squeeze, but cosy all the same.

We arrived at the school to be greeted by a sea of children, aged between three and eleven, who were sat patiently waiting for their check ups. The CBR team and the medical staff set up in an empty classroom, where the children would be examined by Joseph, who specialised in physiotherapy, a physiatrist and an eye specialist.

We were each designated a role to help out; Tracy was with the children, sending them one by one to be examined, Poppy and Will made a tally of male and females who were checked, and I waited by the doorway assisting the children in and out of the makeshift medical room.

The doctor will see you now...

 It was an enjoyable experience, as it was something none of us had ever done before. However, it was upsetting to see the appearance of some of the children, as some were missing hair, revealed bloated stomachs and bowed legs. Luckily, no major medical cases were found and the majority of problems, such as eye infections stemmed from a lack of hygiene. This, I found frustrating, as it is such a simple task that can be prevented. Although in this area of Bechonsa, as mentioned in Tracy’s previous post ‘How much can £10.50 get you in Ghana’, the closest source of water is 10k away and ‘having a shower comes secondary to drinking’.

The lack of hygiene issue was noted and brought up by the eye specialist, who complained to the teacher for not having a health specialist in the school to teach the children basic hygiene routines. During my time in Ghana, I’ve realised that it’s the little things that make the big differences.

One of the pupils having an eye test

 In total the health specialists examined over 200 children. It was a great insight into different areas of CBR and was lovely to have the opportunity to work with and meet other staff members and the children.

200+ kids down and we decided to pack up to leave. Back into the trunk we went for the long journey back, frying in the heat as we sat bare to the sun. I can honestly say it’s the hottest I’ve been (which I’m currently doubting right now, as I sit here typing this). We all alighted with a rosy glow and in some cases a healthy looking tan. I’m looking at you William, or should I say Eoghan!

As Poppy and I sat in the trunk with out backs to the car, Tracy and Will sat at the opposite end, getting the worst of the dust that blew out from behind them. Mixed with wind and sweat, Will looked like a different man once we arrived back in Sandema. His hair was stood upright, embedded with sweat and dust, giving it a sandy/ginger tint, and his face looked like he had a spray tan as it was coated in dust, sitting heavy in his eyebrows. It was hilarious!

If you’re able to view a photo right now, count yourself lucky (and I’ll probably owe Will 10 Ghana cedi for allowing me to upload it). If not, imagine Dale Winton with blonde hair, aged around 70. Poppy and I christened Will’s new look, Eoghan [say it how it's spelt for added effect], after the failed X-Factor contestant, Eoghan Quigg, as he developed a camp Irish accent that went with his new look perfectly.

Introducing Ghana's Irish mega star... Eoghan.

- Jenna 

P.S Many thanks to Will-i-am for letting me finally upload Eoghan

Charles Taylor...

On the 5^th of March we visited Charles Taylor in Chuchuliga, a blind guitarist who has taken part in the Feok previously. We have heard a lot about Charles as he is very popular and well known within the Builsa district. He was incredibly welcoming and positive about the project and his involvement. Charles Taylor and his band partner sang us two songs with their homemade guitar and painted calabash, being used as a drum – they sang one song in English which went something along the lines of “it’s a happy day, call my friend, I want to speak to her, it’s a happy day”. He was an inspiring man who didn’t once mention his disability as a hindrance, only saying he would like to make an album to sell! Once we had interviewed him, he very generously gave us a chicken! Absolutely terrified about how to hold it at first, I began holding it like a baby, to our drivers’ amusement. We became quite attached to Charlie the Chicken as he fell asleep on my knee on the drive home. Once we were home, we were at a loss of what to do with Charlie! So naturally we gave him water and cornflakes and stuck him on the veranda (which he escaped from) luckily, Alpha male Festus managed to grab him just as he made a break for freedom over the compound wall. We fashioned a lead and let Charlie chill out for a few hours before the inevitable happened… we had a lovely chicken stew that night (poor Charlie!)

English is English...right?

During our time in Ghana, we have been learning some of the local language, Buli.  Poppy, in particular, is really quite good at Buli (although she really does have some competition from Jenna, who has possibly mastered 2 words of Buli…well done Jenna!! J).  In fact, Poppy was even told yesterday that she is 100% Ghanaian now – her Buli is that good!

Ghanaian English....

Not speaking the local language perfectly really shouldn’t have hindered us all that much though, as the official language of Ghana is English after all.  Well, it is Ghana’s version of English.  I think we initially had more trouble understanding some of the Ghanaian English than we did understanding Buli.

For the most part UK English and Ghana English are very similar – a tomato in Ghana is still a tomato in English. Nevertheless, despite the “common” language, there have been many a time when we have not had a clue as to what has been said, or have completely misunderstood what the person is saying to us!  In fact, I think it is fair to say we might have understood more if the person was speaking Buli!

So I thought we could share  a conversation we have often as we go about our business in Ghana (family and friends take note, we have adapted to this version very quickly and will most likely use it when we return home!):

Ghanaian: Yo, my sistah! Howzit?

Uk Volunteer: Hello, how are you?

Ghanaian: Yeah, actually, I’m good.  Where are you going?

UK Volunteer: We are going to the……

Phone rings

Ghanaian: Let me pick it…Hello (SHOUTING down the phone aggressively), Hello, HELLO?! Oh, good morning!

UK Volunteer: awkwardly stands and waits to finish their sentence

*During this entire time, the Ghanaian has been holding the UK volunteer’s hand

Ghanaian: (after finishing phone call) I’m going to go and come

UK Volunteer: Oh ok, should I wait? (as the Ghanaian walks off)

Ghanaian: A-HAAAA!

10 mins later, our Ghanaian friend returns just as the UK volunteer manages to spill water down themselves, stub a toe, or almost get run over by a motorbike

Ghanaian: Oh, sorry*.  Here, let me help.

UK Volunteer: Oh thank you

Ghanaian: Thank you for thanking me.

*It wasn’t at all their fault that I now look like I wet myself/broke a toe/died a tragic death – they are just sorry that that happened to me.

This version of English is actually quite charming, and we have now incorporated it into our daily speech!  Some other common phrases we have learned:

A-Haaaaa – You make this noise when you are agreeing with someone

Ei! (Said in a high pitched way!) – Oh my word!!

I’m coming – Woah, woah, woah, you have spoken to quickly and now I’m lost, but let me just recap and I’m sure I will have understood!

What will you take? – this is usually said in a restaurant/bar, and means “What can I get you/What do you want?”

Money makes the world go around?

Yes, financial aid is needed – I don’t think people can completely argue with that but is it the main solution? Arguably no. I can only talk of my own experience here in Sandema; mainly because our internet is pants so any sort of research is a no go but personal experience is more interesting anyway isn’t it?

We have now travelled to meet 13 chiefs in each of the Builsa districts; we’ve spoken to disabled people’s organisations (DPOs), women’s groups and schools. The one thing they all have in common? Their need for financial aid whether, it’s a dam, footballs, assistive devices or school uniforms, each and every group spoken to expressed a want or need for something material. I cannot disagree that all these things are needed, I also believe they would improve the lives of people who requested them but there is an argument for the power of speech; the power of knowledge. CBR, over the past few years has worked to set up these meeting groups and organisations where people can talk to each other and discuss their problems, this may be livelihood or health or depression, anything, a lot of these things can be improved just by talking and knowing you are not alone.

I look at our involvement in Kadema, as mentioned in a previous post the DPOs in Kadema were, for the first time, included in the local Feok festival. This didn’t cost any money, there was no financial aid given but this opportunity meant the inclusion into society for a group that has previously always been ignored. They were given an opportunity to showcase their crafts and in doing so improve their income. A proud moment for everybody involved, and nobody was required to pay for the experience. Enough of the dream world though, realistically money makes the world go round – money was needed for the implementation of the festival and was also needed for transport to get people to the Feok grounds. It’s a vicious cycle of needing something that isn’t always the answer.

Do people depend on and expect aid even if it’s not needed? We spoke to each group and clearly explained we are a research based project, we have no money to give and all we have to offer is our time and our findings. Each group still, in turn made their pleas for financial help and assistance. The children that live near us often ask for water, one girl even took a sneaky peak in our fridge and demanded mango. Are these people chancers? Do they believe us when we say we are just researching? Have people now begun to expect things off every NGO that walks into Ghana? I don’t know.  

We recently accompanied a screening in Bachonsa to try and determine and identify the early signs of disability in over 200 children. The eye specialist became quite irate with the headmaster upon handing out her umpteenth bottle of eye drops for eye infection. Why do these children not wash? It was the endless amounts of dirt in the children’s eyes that were causing these infections; these are so easily prevented if someone would just tell these children to wash! I’ve got a bit off track as I always seem to with these blogs but my vague/sitting on the fence point still stands. Yes, financial aid is key to ending global poverty but no, I don’t believe it is the single most important component in doing so, throwing money at charities can be a waste, having too much money thrown at some of the larger projects can be counter-productive. I see the fantastic work CBR does on such small funds and I can’t help but believe that passion and hard work is the main thing keeping CBR running and the main element in helping their clients.

- Poppy

Coming and Going in Sandema

Sandema is the capital of the Builsa District, in the Upper East Region of Ghana and is our home town until the end of March. When we were on our way to Sandema for the first time we were all very nervous; the road is full of potholes and you can look into the distance for miles and not see any sign of human life. However, when we arrived in Sandema it looked beautiful with the trees lining the high street.

Sandema is a very friendly place and we all feel safe here with a large number of local friends who always greet us in town whenever they see us.  I’m so glad that we were placed in Sandema everyone you walk past says good morning or “Salut-a”. The public transport links to Bolgatanga are good with the metromass running throughout the day and tro tro’s always available. The metro mass leaves Sandema supposedly every 2 hours starting from 6am, it starts off this way but after around 10am it is all luck as to whether you catch a metro mass, or when it might appear. These state owned buses are very similar to UK buses but due to the bad roads and the number of people who use them each day they are now a poor standard.  Seats are often missing, windows are smashed or just missing, and the doors don’t close properly, but as it is such a large bus the journey is still reasonably comfortable.

The Tro Tro’s are private mini buses which is a very popular form of transport in Ghana. They are often very cramped as they don’t leave the station until they are full with people.  These often break down; Poppy and I once saw one break down driving out of the station! Luckily so far one has not broken down with us in!

Fortunately, for Team Sandema, we have been quite lucky getting public transport and have always made it to our destination in one piece!  Let’s hope this luck continues as we try to get to Mole National park this weekend!

We will learn from you, and you will learn from us

This week we have been finishing our visits to the local Chiefs and Elders in the various communities in the Builsa district.  The visits have been very interesting, and we learn something different from each Chief.

One of the most interesting visits has been to see the Chief in Siniensi.  As usual we asked him about the history of the Feok, the traditions and the activities that were involved in celebrating the Feok festival and the responses were relatively similar to those from other communities.  However, in Siniensi the conversation turned to the conflict between the Traditional beliefs of the Builsa people, and the prevalence of Christianity.

Beginning in the 15^th Century, Ghana was occupied by European colonisers from Portugal, Holland, Britain and Denmark in order to capitalise on exports of gold and the slave trade, and with these colonisers came Christianity and missionaries, who were instrumental in developing an education system in Ghana in order to facilitate the spreading of the Gospel.  One of the issues we have discovered whilst talking to the many Chiefs is that young people in the Builsa district are disheartened and disinterested with the traditional culture and beliefs.  The Siniensi Chief made an interesting, and probably quite a valid point that the youth of Ghana consider that Western methods and way of life will lead to success rather than the more traditional Ghanaian livelihood methods.  As a result, they are less interested in participating and performing in the traditional Feok festival and, according to the Siniensi Chief, the cultural traditions of the Builsa are slowly dying out.  

The Siniensi Chief strongly linked education with Christianity, and this opinion has been reiterated in several conversations we have had here in Ghana.  It is understandable then, that the cultural traditions of offering sacrifices to the Gods for a good harvest, as is customary during the Feok festival, are not taught or proclaimed in many of the schools in Ghana, where there is reportedly a strong Christian bias.  How true this is, is yet to be confirmed, and hopefully our visits to schools in the coming weeks will confirm or challenge this opinion.  Interestingly, our partner organisation is strongly linked with the Presbyterian Church and our project co-ordinator is an avid Christian who does not practice the traditional beliefs of his people, and yet he is the main instigator behind our project which aims to assist the Builsa people to retain their cultural heritage.  

This conversation started me thinking about the influence of Western ideas on recipients of development and humanitarian aid, and the problem of leaving, or enforcing, a Western footprint in aid and development bugged me throughout my recent degree. I think it is important that, as aid and development workers, we respect the traditions and culture of the country in which we are working, despite whether our own scientific and perhaps secular education disapproves.  I don’t know where the line is that brings development to Ghana without Westernising the country, but throughout my time here I will carry with me a message that has been repeated many times from the Chiefs we have met:

“We will learn from you, and you will learn from us”.  I see development as a mutual investment in the country, and hopefully by helping the region to preserve their cultural history we will also be able to help them move forward in their disability awareness.

- Tracy

Pikworo Slave Camp

 While in Paga we took a slightly more sombre excursion and visited the once-was Pikworo Slave Camp. At 8 cedi’s entry per volunteer it is well worth visiting and learning about if you’re in the area.

Our guide, demonstrating Punishment Rock

During the early 19^th Century several hundred slaves were kept at Pikworo before travelling to Salaga market to be sold by infamous slave raiders Babatu and Samori. We were taken around the ruins of the camp; we saw the watch tower, the graveyard and the punishment rock – our guide demonstrated how each area would have been used. A captured slave on the punishment rock would have had their hands and feet tied and forced to face the sun with no water or food, often being whipped; they were often left there to die if they had argued against being sold. 

The "bowls" slaves were forced to eat from

While researching the Feok Festival for our project we have heard a lot of stories regarding Babatu’s reign and final defeat but seeing the real life slave camps made the stories and our interest a lot more real. We saw the holes in the ground that were dug by slaves as punishment and then they were forced to eat out of these, often 5 or 6 slaves per hole – they were never given quite enough food to make them strong enough to resist.  

On a lighter note, we also visited their “entertainment centre” where rock drumming, singing and dancing took place – our rendition of “the lion sleeps tonight” seemed to go down quite well with the local children who accompanied us on our tour although, the locals’ music played on these rocks was impressive – different size rocks beat against different sides of the rocks created different sounds.

- Poppy

On the radio.....oh woah oh oh.....

Ibrahim the manager of the local radio station, Radio Builsa, has invited us to speak on his station which is listened to by around a million people within the Builsa District. Poppy and I are in charge of selecting days to speak on the radio and we selected Monday as our first day. We plan to use the radio for mainly research to find out what the people of Builsa think about our project and what they think about people with disabilities being involved in the Feok Festival.

On Monday Poppy, Jenna and I spoke on the radio with DJ Prosper, we told the people of Builsa about why we are in the District and all about the LIFE project. We hope to go on the radio every week to keep the people of Builsa updated with how the project is going and ask their opinion. We are very lucky to have the radio just behind our house and that Ibrahim is such a friendly person and so willing to help us with our project. 

- Will

Spare time in Sandema

Although Sandema is not a bustling metropolis,  we've discovered a few things to do to see on a sunny afternoon. The market, which is held every three days in the town centre is a busy little place, filled with all sorts of smells and sounds; mostly of fish and kids shouting “smiley smiley!” meaning ‘white person’.

It’s always an entertaining trip and each visit we've managed to find something new; kola nuts, plantain, flip flops for Poppy, CHOCOLATE! It took some finding but this week (29^th Jan) we discovered chocolate for the first time in Sandema. I say chocolate, the one and only box in the market cost 18 Ghana cedis and the chocolate we bought is like cocoa OXO cubes. It’s not Cadbury’s, that’s for sure.

To get to the market we sometimes take a short cut and walk across a dry riverbed that has a sandy bottom. We call this the beach (as the nearest one to us is miles and miles away). Other things Sandema has to offer is the Resource Centre where you can surf the internet for 1 Ghana cedi an hour.

Once you’re hungry from all that surfing, Conifahs is the place to eat. It serves delicious food at amazing prices. One meal cost only 3 Ghana cedis, which is the equivalent to £1.00. Joyce, the cook, can whip up a mean vegetable sauce to compliment a rice and chicken dish; best served with an ice cold Star (the local beer) or an Alvaro (a soft drink we’re all a little bit obsessed with). Perfect for cooling you down after a long day at work meeting with the many chiefs of the Builsa District!

Jenna, Poppy, Festus, and Tracy having dinner at Conifahs

Back at HQ (Team Sandema’s little bungalow, now called The White House) you can visit the local radio station, Radio Builsa, which is a five-minute walk from our house. Take a personal tour around the studio or go on air to speak to nearly one million listeners of the Builsa District. The manager of the station, Ibrahim is keen for us to go on the radio, so expect to hear DJ Poppy and DJ Willy on the air waves soon!

Everyday we discover something new in Sandema. On Thursday (30^th Jan) Asiemi, our cleaner took us for a tour of the nearby villages and introduced us to some of the locals and showed us where they live. It was a great opportunity to meet new people and to briefly experience a Builsa’s life at home.  

We look forward to discovering more hidden treasures of Sandema. In the meantime we’ll continue to play ‘Skip Bo!’. If it hasn’t been previously mentioned in this blog, it’s a fun card game (the only one that I know the rules to) that goes down well with a glass (or mug, in our case) of Don Simon Sangria.

With two months to go (our time in Ghana has flown so far!), I’m sure that our ‘leisure’ blog posts will become more and more interesting with Team Sandema adventures. Watch this space…

- Jenna

Our lives in Sandema....

This week has been another busy one! Full days and busy nights make us a little tired but we are still all really enjoying ourselves. Follows is a few posts about general life in Sandema.

Our 'home town', Sandema

Sandema is the home of Builsas. Capital of its district – the Builsa district and located in the Northern part of Ghana, specifically the Upper East Region. Builsa people speak Buli and Saab (also known as the Tuo Zaafi in Hausa) with different kind of soups as their traditional food; mostly eaten at supper or dinner. Sandema, apart from Builsas, is also the home for all kinds of people from different backgrounds from Ghana and other parts of the world. Builsas are peace loving people and friendly to all manner of people or persons irrespective of race. The Builsa landscape can be described as a plain interspersed with few high grounds. The vegetation is purely savannah with few scattered trees. The Builsas have a rich cultural heritage which unites them. They celebrate Feok festival to commemorate their victory over the slave raiders and as a thanks giving sacrifice to their ancestors after every harvest. People of Builsa are always in jubilant mood during the Feok festival. It is lovely being in Sandema. 

- Festus

Our house, in the middle of our street?

We’re staying in a small compound on the grounds of FISTRAD, a stone throw away from work which makes the mornings a little easier. We each have a small bungalow/pod with a double bed and an en-suite bathroom – what luxury! We have a little kitchen slap bang in the middle and finally now have a table and chairs! I think it’s fair to say we’re living the life of it up here in Sandema in our little piece of home. The only downside in Poppy and Will’s room is the smell – no it’s not their feet! We are unfortunately placed above the water system and occasionally we get a rather pungent cabbage smell when the water is running through.

Will and Tracy sat on Tracy's porch...yes, her house is really called "Burger Komittee Stain Hagen" 

Working 9-5 

We’re all very passionate and excited about our project, LIFE – the longer we work on it the more involved we become. We’ve been working hard meeting over 10 chiefs, including the paramount chief of the Builsa District, the District Assembly and Disabled Peoples Organisations (DPO). We have been receiving endless positive feedback for the project from everyone involved and it is progressing well already. 

Meeting the Sandema Naab (in the salmon outfit inbetween Will and Tracy) and his sub-chiefs and elders

The team with members of the District Assembly (the gentleman inbetween Poppy and Jenna was rather forward in his desire to make one of them his wife!)

The team with the President, Gilbert, of the Sandema Disabled People's Organisation

Since meeting with us, the Kadema Chief has already met with his DPO and has promised them that they can be involved in the local Feok on the 9^th of February – result! What incredible news that was, I (Poppy) think I speak for everyone when I say we really do feel a part of something special here, something that could really improve the lives of many people with disabilities – and we’re only just getting started!! 

- Poppy

 Meeting Kadema chief was the highlight for me last week. We had already met him quickly at the District Assembly and he had already called us his brother and sisters and was looking forward to seeing us. When visiting he greeted us with a smile again and invited the women to come and sit in the meeting, which only a few chiefs did last week. He was very open to the idea of people with disabilities being involved in the Feok. His community had not yet had its local Feok but he invited us to attend on the 9^th February and said he would look into including people with disabilities. It was clear people living with disabilities were included in this community as there was a lady at the meeting with a disability and he invited her to show us her skills of basket weaving and dancing. On Sunday Maxwell our project coordinator said that the Kadema chief had called him and said he had been to see the local disabled people’s organisation. He spoke to them asking how they would like to be involved in the festival and what the problems would be for them being involved. This is excellent news as he is making the steps towards getting disabled people involved. He said that he had simply not thought to include them before but now that we have brought it to his attention he said he would make an active effort to include those with disabilities.   We shall be visiting the Kadema group and Chief again soon to see what happens!

 

- Will

Week One: Tracy & Jenna's Best Bits

Week one has been filled with so many wonderful things; we have met so many people and had so many interesting experiences it is hard to pinpoint just one.  Bringing home a live chicken from the market certainly needs a mention, but I think our focus group session with the Disabled Persons’ Organisation (DPO) in Fumbisi might just top it.

As part of our project we are researching how people with disabilities might be able to be included into the Feok festival in December, and so we held a focus group in Fumbisi where we met so many wonderful people.  Unfortunately, many of these people are discriminated against by society; hidden away, ignored, and prevented from accessing local services, cultural activities, or playing a contributive role in society.  We asked them questions about their skills, and ways they could participate in the Feok festival, we talked to them about the issues they face as a disabled person, and what benefits they might receive by taking part in the festival.  

There was overwhelming support for our project, and although I left feeling they had extraordinarily, and perhaps unrealistically high expectations of us, I also felt that this project was more than helping them participate in a song and dance; this project is about giving them a voice and allowing them to be valuable members of society.  At times I felt incredibly emotional as members of the group told stories about being treated in the hospital car park because of the poor access facilities, or how feel they may as well be dead, but mainly from their spirit and determination to fight back.  I was holding back tears when the group burst into song, women ululated their appreciation, and as men and women of all ages and abilities clapped and danced to the music.  It is a memory that will stay with me for a long time.