Showing posts with label Ghana. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Ghana. Show all posts

Tuesday, 7 May 2013

Two Team Leaders, 1 week, 10 trotros, and a whole heap of fun....

After the first team bid us adieu at the end of March, myself, Zoe (Tamale team leader), and Sean (Bolga team leader) were granted a week's holiday.  Sean headed up to Burkina Faso to see his lovely lady wife, who is a team leader on an International Service ICS programme there, and me and Zoe began an adventure which would take us half way across the country in the space of a week.

We did too much and had far too much fun to write about it all here....I wouldn't want to make you jealous, but here are 10 Things I did on my Holidays:

1.    Danced on top of a mountain to celebrate Easter (Kwahu Easter festival)

Paragliding at the Kwahu Easter Festival....the dancing came later!


2.   Learned to weave Kente cloth in Kumasi







3. Figured out I was born on a Friday, which means
 I am called Afia in the Ashanti region, and am consequently considered to be a heartbreaker....



4.  Received approximately 5 marriage proposals, and was sold to a man wearing huge, comedy sunglasses for 15 cows (I don’t know if he was wearing the sunglasses as a joke or seriously).  15 cows is actually a very good price.  I think there may have been a problem with the transaction as I believe I am still single.

Fishing boats in Elmina.....
I tried to pick up a smaller version of this and failed, quite miserably!
5.  Tried to convince a shipbuilder in Elmina that I was strong enough to work for him…and then failing miserably to pick up the boat which would have secured me the job.










6.  Visited the Word Alive children’s home that my lovely friend Pippa used to work at in Esiama and took them some sweets and let the children speak to her on the phone.








Life above water...Nzeluzu, Ghana
7.  Spent 13 hours travelling in a trotro to visit Nzeluzu for 30minutes; a great community on stilts on the water, only accessible by canoe…worth the 13 hour trip? Hmm.









8. Made friends with the man in charge of Education at Cape Coast castle who let us in for free (Thank you Mr Steven!).
This is Zoe demonstrating how to walk on a rope bridge....
this was something I proved incapable of doing without crying like a baby.

9. Had a panic attack on the Canopy walk in Kakum National Park….who knew you could develop a fear of heights at 29.  Apparently doing 2 skydives and a bungee jump is much less scary than walking across a rope bridge 40 metre high.





10. Had a “crazy” 29th birthday, dancing at a beach bar in Cape Coast with some lovely friends and a random Rasta man.


It's not easy bein' green


When I arrived in Sandema in January, everything was a yellowy-brown colour, including the sun, the ground, even the trees seemed to fit into this colour scheme. 

The lovely brown tones of Sandema in January

Poppy, Jenna, Will and I slowly adjusted to the lack of greenery, only made more intense by the increasingly stifling temperatures.  At the end of March, I headed to the south of Ghana for a holiday and a tour of some of Ghana’s more obvious/popular tourist attractions - I felt like I had entered a different country; not only was the climate completely different – don’t get me wrong it was still blisteringly hot compared to UK weather standards, but not as deathly as it is in the north due to a cool breeze and a little more humidity (In fact there were times when I can say I was a little cold and would have welcomed a jumper!), but the scenery changed quite dramatically as well.  Everything was green.  Really green.  It was beautiful, but so different from the landscape in the north of the country. 

Green, green, tall trees in Kakum National Park

Flourishing plant-life in the lake at Nzeluzu, near Benin 
In Ghana, it isn’t only the landscape which changes dramatically from the north to the south – whilst there are some inherent constants in this country (like the incredibly welcoming nature of the Ghanaian people), there are also a lot of things that differ, even if you only travel 10 minutes up the road, such as the languages.  There are, according to Wikipedia (which is, of course, an entirely reliable source..ahem!) a total of 81 different languages in Ghana, including Twi, Dagbani, Kasem, and Buli, the language we are learning here in the Builsa district (English is the official language of Ghana).  Many of the Ghanaians I have met over the past 4 months have been able to speak at least 5 or 6 different languages.  


So upon trekking to the south of Ghana (it was hardly a trek sat on a rather comfortable plane with a free drink and something resembling a chicken sandwich, but I’m allowed a little bit of artistic licence!), it was rather unsettling to be confronted with an entirely green, yet considerably more developed (they actually have tar roads, and the cars have seat belts.  I even travelled in a trotro which had air conditioning, and by this I don’t mean the window was missing either) landscape and not being able to understand a single word anyone was saying.  I am by no means fluent in Buli, but I can at least recognise the odd word here and there and can generally figure out what people are trying to say to me, or about me.  The confidence I had parading around Sandema’s dusty and quiet streets was zapped as I entered what felt like a completely new country upon arrival in the hustle and bustle of Accra, and then travelling around the green, leafy, and humid southern regions.

At the end of our week off and after the induction week for the new volunteers, I was getting quite restless to get back to my Ghanaian home; a place that is now very familiar to me.  I was looking forward to being reunited with the hues featuring entirely on the orange-yellow side of the colour wheel.  After just 3 weeks away, I was amazed as we drove through Sandema to our house….everything was GREEN!  




In the short time I had been away, and even more so over the past 2 weeks, Sandema has changed from being entirely orange and yellow, to include every colour on the colour wheel!  The trees are most definitely green, as are the fields surrounding our house and little flowers in a striking red colour dot many of the trees, and there is water everywhere adding a bluey-greeny-grey tinge to the landscape. 




If Poppy, Jenna, and Will were here now they would think they were in a different place.  I can only imagine what Sandema will look like in a few weeks when the rains really begin!

Thursday, 7 March 2013

Charles Taylor...


On the 5th of March we visited Charles Taylor in Chuchuliga, a blind guitarist who has taken part in the Feok previously. We have heard a lot about Charles as he is very popular and well known within the Builsa district. He was incredibly welcoming and positive about the project and his involvement. Charles Taylor and his band partner sang us two songs with their homemade guitar and painted calabash, being used as a drum – they sang one song in English which went something along the lines of “it’s a happy day, call my friend, I want to speak to her, it’s a happy day”. He was an inspiring man who didn’t once mention his disability as a hindrance, only saying he would like to make an album to sell! Once we had interviewed him, he very generously gave us a chicken! Absolutely terrified about how to hold it at first, I began holding it like a baby, to our drivers’ amusement. We became quite attached to Charlie the Chicken as he fell asleep on my knee on the drive home. Once we were home, we were at a loss of what to do with Charlie! So naturally we gave him water and cornflakes and stuck him on the veranda (which he escaped from) luckily, Alpha male Festus managed to grab him just as he made a break for freedom over the compound wall. We fashioned a lead and let Charlie chill out for a few hours before the inevitable happened… we had a lovely chicken stew that night (poor Charlie!)

Friday, 1 March 2013

How much can £10.50 get you in Ghana?

Throughout our visits to Chiefs, their Elders, women’s groups, community groups and opinion leaders to discuss the integration of people with disabilities into the Feok festival, poverty has been highlighted as a fundamental challenge to our work, but more importantly to the lives of people with disabilities, and the general public.  This week we visited Bechonsa, a very rural community in the Builsa district, and we helped with a children’s health screening.  We accompanied a physiotherapist, eye specialists, and psychiatrist to a kindergarten and primary school where each child was assessed and any health issues identified.  So many of the children had eye problems (as well as skin infections, and ringworm amongst other things) which, according to the eye specialist, was as a direct result of a lack of hygiene; these children were just not bathing on a regular occasion and so all the dust and dirt was gathering and collecting in their eyes, and staying there for days, maybe weeks, at a time.  A simple solution to this problem is just to wash more. However, when we visited Bechonsa’s Chief, Sub-Chiefs, and Elders, they highlighted that the closest water source was 10k away.  If obtaining water is an issue, then it will be used sparingly….having a shower comes secondary to drinking.  One of their requests to us, 5 volunteers, was to fund and build a dam.  No problem – let me check my bank account and with the £10.50 I have in there, I will get right on it.  In order to build a dam, we need money.  Lots of money. 

If money was no object, there is an awful lot that we could do in the Builsa district, but unfortunately that is not the case at all.  All that considered, the aim of our project is to advocate for the inclusion of people with disabilities into the local Feok festival.  Just from speaking with one Chief and discussing the issue of social inclusion encouraged him to make more of an effort engaging people with disabilities.  In early February, the Kadema Chief was a pioneer in the Builsa district and people with disabilities played a large role in his community festival and were consulted during the planning.  No money was involved in this development – it was as a result of having a conversation.  Are we hindered in our work by having limited funds?  Does foreign aid actually solve any of the problems that these rural communities face?

There is an argument that foreign aid is the solution to poverty.  Numerous international agreements, including those related to the MDGs, encourage UN member states to pledge 0.7% of their gross national product to international aid and development.  However, foreign aid has been shovelled into Africa for decades and yet poverty is still rife in much of the continent; Ghana included*.

As we have conducted our project, we have discovered that disability is not aggressively discriminated against, but people just don’t know how to manage disability.  We have had an overwhelming response from school children, women, elders, Chiefs, and the general public, that there is no taboo for people with disabilities to participate in the Feok, but they just have no idea how they are supposed to participate.  Money is not necessarily the solution to this problem, but education and advocacy.  Of course, to educate the public and to advocate for the rights, needs, and capabilities of people with disabilities money is required.  For the International Service volunteers to be in Ghana, they needed to raise money, and the projects are part-funded by DFID; money does indeed make the world go round.  When we discuss “foreign aid” it is more a reference to Overseas Development Assistance; money given from one government to another.  Unfortunately, there are many accounts of where these funds have been whittled away to the benefit of elites, used heavily in corruption, or have not been appropriated suitably to combat poverty. 

We have discussed before, in this blog, that a huge point to this ICS scheme is so that UK volunteers and international partners can share experiences and exchange knowledge.  Here in Ghana, we have often heard “you will learn from us, and we will learn from you”.  I believe it is this philosophy that is missing from international development, particularly in regards to money.  There is absolutely no point throwing money at a country, a continent, or a project, if there is no effective way to manage that money, or manage whatever it is that emerges as a result of that money.  We could build a dam in Bechonsa, which could provide a better water source to the community, but it won’t necessarily put a stop to all of the health problems the children we met last week are facing.  An investment of time and an exchange of knowledge is perhaps the only way that can resolve those development issues; providing information and education to parents, teachers, and children on basic hygiene practices will go a long way to facilitating better health care.

There are many reasons why poverty exists in the world, and it is not entirely as a consequence of corruption, mismanagement or poor governance. Climate change, and its negative consequences, overpopulation, conflicts, and geography are just some of the many factors which contribute to the prolongation of poverty in the world today.  Foreign aid can indeed have a huge impact on resolving these issues, however, a lot can also be achieved with a little bit of gumption.  Don’t think I’m naïve, I have studied well the issues involved in humanitarianism and international development, and I am fully aware that money and financial assistance is a crucial component of making a change, but we also need to realise that development can occur through other means too.


*Ghana, by all accounts, is considered one of the success stories of Africa, and in the South of the country much progress has been made in terms of development.  However, in the North, where International Service projects are based, a large percentage of the population are classed as living below the poverty line.
52% of people living in Ghana's norther region are living below the poverty line ($1 USD a day)
70% of poverty in upper region
Only 66.5% of children are enrolled in school in northern Ghana, compared to 89.5% Ghana average.
N.B These statistics were shared with volunteers during a training session, and are believed to come from UN.org.


Music to my ears...


One of my favourite things about Ghana is the music. Anyone who knows me will tell you I love pre-2005 music, I sing it all the time and would live in the 90s for the rest of my life if the chance came about. Ghana constantly plays ‘the classics’ to any 90s born kid, I'm in musical heaven! We were treated to 7 songs IN A ROW by Miley Cyrus the other day on the radio, I appreciated this and I know my 13 year old cousin would have done too, even if no one else did! I mentioned in a previous post that our driver, Kwame has agreed to marry me even though he doesn’t know my name yet and just calls me “wife”, he called Will, Poppy the other day (the thought was there). Anyway, our relationship has now moved on to the next level – mix tapes!  Myself, Jenna and Tracy had a wonderful time picking some tunes that we thought Kwame would like to listen to while cruising around Sandema, not being able to settle for less than 60 top tunezzzz, Kwame received three jam packed full CDs.

We’re in a powerful position being able to predict what song might be big next in Ghana (I predict Steps as currently Barbie Girl is huge) however, this knowledge can come with its hardships. My heart broke a little bit upon seeing Festus’ face when we told him Westlife had broken up, on the upside they’re not due to break up for at least 7 years yet in Ghana. Westlife are held in the highest musical position here, they haven’t heard of The Beatles but Westlife are HUGE. It was rumoured that when One Direction visited Accra they just kept getting asked if they were the Gods, Westlife. Here is a selection of some of our top picks from the Kwame compilation –

1)      Westlife – World of our own

2)      B*Witched – Blame it on the weatherman

3)      R Kelly – I believe I can fly

4)      Robbie Williams – Let me entertain you

5)      Justin Bieber – Baby (the acoustic version – of course)

6)      Spice Girls – 2 become 1

7)      Taylor Swift – You belong with me

8)      Beyonce – Love on top

9)      Elvis Presley – Love me tender

10)   Lighthouse Family – High

As you can see, Ghanain’s love two things when it comes to music; cheese and love (we threw Robbie in there for good measure), I will be posting Kwame’s verdicts as soon as possible…! People constantly seem impressed with my lyrical knowledge not realising how many years I’ve had to learn the lyrics to these songs that are so new to Ghana. I think Will doing Ken’s bit in Barbie Girl sent them over the edge, it was just too perfect. Our taxi driver Joe is into slightly different music, think 50 Cent, G Unit, Shaggy and Eminem, did I mention I went through a phase of LOVING rap music? It just keeps getting better and better for me doesn’t it? This music can create a slightly awkward watching a sex scene with your parents atmosphere with its explicit content but who doesn’t enjoy cruising to a small northern village in Ghana to Shaggy’s “7 Days”? I know Team Sandema does.

 In short, I love Ghana, it allows me and Jenna to sing J Lo & LL Cool J’s “All I have” every day and be completely ahead of the music times, “your pride is what you had, baby girl I'm what you have…”

- Poppy

English is English...right?

During our time in Ghana, we have been learning some of the local language, Buli.  Poppy, in particular, is really quite good at Buli (although she really does have some competition from Jenna, who has possibly mastered 2 words of Buli…well done Jenna!! J).  In fact, Poppy was even told yesterday that she is 100% Ghanaian now – her Buli is that good!

Ghanaian English....


Not speaking the local language perfectly really shouldn’t have hindered us all that much though, as the official language of Ghana is English after all.  Well, it is Ghana’s version of English.  I think we initially had more trouble understanding some of the Ghanaian English than we did understanding Buli.

For the most part UK English and Ghana English are very similar – a tomato in Ghana is still a tomato in English. Nevertheless, despite the “common” language, there have been many a time when we have not had a clue as to what has been said, or have completely misunderstood what the person is saying to us!  In fact, I think it is fair to say we might have understood more if the person was speaking Buli!
So I thought we could share  a conversation we have often as we go about our business in Ghana (family and friends take note, we have adapted to this version very quickly and will most likely use it when we return home!):

Ghanaian: Yo, my sistah! Howzit?
Uk Volunteer: Hello, how are you?
Ghanaian: Yeah, actually, I’m good.  Where are you going?
UK Volunteer: We are going to the……
Phone rings
Ghanaian: Let me pick it…Hello (SHOUTING down the phone aggressively), Hello, HELLO?! Oh, good morning!
UK Volunteer: awkwardly stands and waits to finish their sentence
*During this entire time, the Ghanaian has been holding the UK volunteer’s hand
Ghanaian: (after finishing phone call) I’m going to go and come
UK Volunteer: Oh ok, should I wait? (as the Ghanaian walks off)
Ghanaian: A-HAAAA!
10 mins later, our Ghanaian friend returns just as the UK volunteer manages to spill water down themselves, stub a toe, or almost get run over by a motorbike
Ghanaian: Oh, sorry*.  Here, let me help.
UK Volunteer: Oh thank you
Ghanaian: Thank you for thanking me.
*It wasn’t at all their fault that I now look like I wet myself/broke a toe/died a tragic death – they are just sorry that that happened to me.

This version of English is actually quite charming, and we have now incorporated it into our daily speech!  Some other common phrases we have learned:

A-Haaaaa – You make this noise when you are agreeing with someone

Ei! (Said in a high pitched way!) – Oh my word!!

I’m coming – Woah, woah, woah, you have spoken to quickly and now I’m lost, but let me just recap and I’m sure I will have understood!

What will you take? – this is usually said in a restaurant/bar, and means “What can I get you/What do you want?”

Mole, Mole, Mole, Moleeee ahhh-ahhh-haaa


Last Friday we made the mammoth trip to Tamale in preparation for our visit to Mole! Expecting the worst from public transport we were pleasantly surprised with our metro mass bus, and our private trotro/mini bus seemed like absolute luxury! When we finally made it to Tamale and our group was a total of 15, we headed straight to the swimming pool for a quick dip and sunbathe before making the most of the western food available in Tamale – burger and chips!!
With only 4 single beds on offer in the Tamale palace it was always going to be a squeeze and rush for sleeping space, luckily the ‘Bolga Babes’ had bought their trusty foam so there was plenty of room for everyone (or at least there was for me, Jenna and Tracy who all managed to bag a bed – sorry Will). After a hot night we woke to start our trip to Mole, we all piled in to the minibus summer-holiday-style and took off! We arrived at Mole and straight away spotted the pool overlooking two watering holes and booked ourselves on to a jeep safari tour. We were split in to two groups. The jeep tour was incredible, aside from seeing a wide range of animals in their natural habitat we were also able to get very close to the elephant, ‘People’s Friend Number 2’ and see a croc – though this one was not sit able on!! We saw 13 elephants, baboons, antelope, crocodiles and an array of birds. Adam was friendly, funny and incredibly knowledgeable – knowing the scientific name for everything and anything you could point your finger at in the park, another thing you should know about Adam is that he loves his gun, he clicked it into position several times and even offered to let us hear the “noise of his weapon” to which we all squealed excitedly like 12 year old boys (this didn’t happen to our massive disappointment). The jeep safari cost only 10cd and was a fantastic 2 hours well spent, I would recommend to anyone to give it a go! Speak of recommendations…
That night, 11 of us intrepid explorers made our way into the park, in the dark, to what is known as ‘The Treehouse’ (not before filling up on more “burger cheese chip” of course, only just resisting “chicken carbon blue”). The tree house was amazing; it was in the middle of nowhere and had lovely sights and sounds of the local wildlife. We spent the evening playing two truths and a lie, some very exciting stories came to light, although I forget now which was the truth and which was a lie – Tippi’s Uncle IS the President of Korea isn’t he?! The phrase “if you don’t laugh, you cry” springs to mind and boy did we laugh, uncontrollably for some hours, scaring most of the wildlife away probably?
When we finally settled down for a cosy night’s sleep all we found were roll up mats and hard wooden floors/benches. The biggest thing we weren’t expecting however, was the now foreign feeling of cold, I mean freezing! Me and Will valiantly took a roll up mat each and a thin sloping bench and settled in for one of the most ridiculous night’s sleep ever – I say ridiculous because if you don’t laugh about it, you cry, right?! We all could not explain enough how comfy and relaxed we all were (!!!) Having said that, I would 100% visit the treehouse again. If you do go, take a hoody, some socks and a loaf of bread – sharing a granola bar between 11 people was some experience for breakfast. All this said, hearing/seeing baboons and hyenas in the middle of the night is quite spectacular and an experience everyone should try at least once!
- Poppy

Money makes the world go around?


Yes, financial aid is needed – I don’t think people can completely argue with that but is it the main solution? Arguably no. I can only talk of my own experience here in Sandema; mainly because our internet is pants so any sort of research is a no go but personal experience is more interesting anyway isn’t it?

We have now travelled to meet 13 chiefs in each of the Builsa districts; we’ve spoken to disabled people’s organisations (DPOs), women’s groups and schools. The one thing they all have in common? Their need for financial aid whether, it’s a dam, footballs, assistive devices or school uniforms, each and every group spoken to expressed a want or need for something material. I cannot disagree that all these things are needed, I also believe they would improve the lives of people who requested them but there is an argument for the power of speech; the power of knowledge. CBR, over the past few years has worked to set up these meeting groups and organisations where people can talk to each other and discuss their problems, this may be livelihood or health or depression, anything, a lot of these things can be improved just by talking and knowing you are not alone.

I look at our involvement in Kadema, as mentioned in a previous post the DPOs in Kadema were, for the first time, included in the local Feok festival. This didn’t cost any money, there was no financial aid given but this opportunity meant the inclusion into society for a group that has previously always been ignored. They were given an opportunity to showcase their crafts and in doing so improve their income. A proud moment for everybody involved, and nobody was required to pay for the experience. Enough of the dream world though, realistically money makes the world go round – money was needed for the implementation of the festival and was also needed for transport to get people to the Feok grounds. It’s a vicious cycle of needing something that isn’t always the answer.

Do people depend on and expect aid even if it’s not needed? We spoke to each group and clearly explained we are a research based project, we have no money to give and all we have to offer is our time and our findings. Each group still, in turn made their pleas for financial help and assistance. The children that live near us often ask for water, one girl even took a sneaky peak in our fridge and demanded mango. Are these people chancers? Do they believe us when we say we are just researching? Have people now begun to expect things off every NGO that walks into Ghana? I don’t know.  

We recently accompanied a screening in Bachonsa to try and determine and identify the early signs of disability in over 200 children. The eye specialist became quite irate with the headmaster upon handing out her umpteenth bottle of eye drops for eye infection. Why do these children not wash? It was the endless amounts of dirt in the children’s eyes that were causing these infections; these are so easily prevented if someone would just tell these children to wash! I’ve got a bit off track as I always seem to with these blogs but my vague/sitting on the fence point still stands. Yes, financial aid is key to ending global poverty but no, I don’t believe it is the single most important component in doing so, throwing money at charities can be a waste, having too much money thrown at some of the larger projects can be counter-productive. I see the fantastic work CBR does on such small funds and I can’t help but believe that passion and hard work is the main thing keeping CBR running and the main element in helping their clients.

- Poppy

Wednesday, 27 February 2013

Tourists for the Day - Navrongo Catholic Mud Cathedral


On Sunday 10th February Team Sandema took a day trip to Navrongo, the capital of the Kassena-Nankana District to explore the famous Catholic Mud Cathedral. We travelled to our desired destination in our favourite mode of transport, the tro tro*. Known for being overcrowded and uncomfortable, the tro tro journey was surprisingly smooth. Despite Will having half of his derrière hanging out of the window and a few bumped heads due to the never ending pot holes, we arrived in Navrongo in one piece… just about.

Getting cosy on the tro tro

Upon arrival our tro tro was mobbed by a group of eager passengers. As soon as the rusty door was pulled open, men, women, children and babies dove onto the tro tro to claim their seats. Fighting, pushing, screaming and shouting, Team Sandema were helplessly stuck in the back, whilst a grown man scrambled through the back window and a woman threw her baby onto a seat. Bemused and a little frightened (lets be honest), we managed to push our way through the boarding passengers and alight the bus. Will and I managed to escape, whilst Poppy and Tracy were still trapped in tro tro hell.

Noticing a little white hand reach out from the mass of bodies, Will grabbed it and out emerged Poppy, followed by Tracy who angrily voiced her views to the passengers. “These people seriously need to learn how to form a queue!” Once we calmed down from our traumatic travel experience, we walked to a roadside food stall and relaxed with a well-deserved egg sandwich. A bloody big one too, as Poppy’s order of ‘three egg with bread’ resulted in a three-egged sandwich, each. Filled with egg until next week, we then ventured into the town centre and met our rock, Mr. Festus.

Festus has a close friend from Navrongo, Martin, who also joined us and acted as our tour guide for the day. We asked him to take us the Mud Cathedral, which he was happy to do. “Of course!” he said. “It’s not that far, we can walk there”. Note to self; never listen to a Ghanaian when they say ‘it’s not that far’. After an hour or so walking in the sweltering Ghanaian sun, desperately seeking shade and a toilet that wasn’t a hole behind a mud wall, we finally reached the Mud Cathedral. It was an enjoyable walk*, but it reminded me of when I was younger when my family and I would travel to Cornwall in the car, and I could be constantly asking my dad, “Are we theeeeeere yet?”


Taking the scenic route

As we entered the cathedral grounds we were welcomed by angelic choir singing coming from one of the rooms, which was a suitable backing track as we turned the corner and clapped eyes on the beautiful Mud Cathedral towering above us, looking like a perfect sand castle. Feeling very much like tourists we paced the building taking lots of photos and posing for the camera in front of the bell tower.


Tourist photo - me outside the Mud Cathedral

The Mud Cathedral was organised by three missionaries, the ‘White Fathers’, who travelled from Burkina Faso to Navrongo in 1906. The White Fathers, who were French-Canadian, initially desired to settle in Paga, but were moved onto Navrongo as they were thought to be slave traders and were not trusted. They were eventually permitted land in the forest by the people of Navrongo, but were only allowed to stay if they established peace with the animals.

Once this was evident they began their ‘catholic mission’ and built a small chapel in 1907, followed by a slightly larger chapel in 1910. The striking Mud Cathedral was later built and completed in 1920 and is still used for worship today. The interior of the cathedral is very impressive with the walls decorated with catholic symbolisms and animal engravings to represent the animals the three Father’s lived amongst.




Poppy and Will get holy

The long journey to the mud cathedral was worth it in the end and Team Sandema and I had a lovely day. We braced ourselves for the long trek back to Navrongo town centre, only for Martin to take us on a short cut that brought us into town in less than half an hour. Cheers for telling us about that shortcut, Martin. Much appreciated.

*Massive lie

- Jenna 

Wednesday, 6 February 2013

Paga Crocodile Park


‘Never smile at a crocodile’
 On Saturday (26th January) the Ghana volunteers reunited in Paga, in the Upper East Region of Ghana, to celebrate Ben’s 26th birthday. We met Team Tamale and Team Bolga at Paga Crocodile Pond, a popular tourist attraction that is apparently filled with some of the biggest crocodiles in the world.

There is a myth that the first man to settle in the area had his life saved by one of the crocodiles, by leading the traveller to the pond to quench his thirst after a long journey in the African sun. Filled with gratitude, he then declared the crocodile ponds in the area ‘sacred’ and declared that all crocodiles in Paga were to be treated as royalty.

Alternatively, there is another myth to the famous crocodile pond. The story goes that a hunter was trapped between the pond and a lion. In order to spare his life, he made a deal with a crocodile that he and his decedents would never eat crocodile meat. Imagining that there is a talking crocodile in this story, just for my own amusement, the crocodile agreed to help the hunter cross the pond to escape the lion. At the other side he then found a village and his home where he settled.
(DearGhana.com)

Even today, it is seen as a taboo to hurt or kill a Paga crocodile. According to travel site, UnitedPlanet.org it is also believed that “the soul of every native in the village [in Paga] has a corresponding crocodile in the pond.”  Paga Crocodile Pond is the only place in the world where you can touch and sit on a crocodile due to their – what we may find, unusually - tame behaviour.

When we entered the pond we were directed to a huge crocodile lying still beneath a tree. It didn’t move for a good five minutes, leading us to believe that it wasn’t real until birthday boy, Ben approached it and perched at the end of its tail. Its mouth slowly opened revealing it’s garish teeth. Confirming it was actually alive and kicking, the team slowly shuffled back.

Everyone was pretty brave stepping up to the beast of a reptile. Team Sandema did well; Tracy posed with the tail and Will looked pretty cool straddling the croc. I however wasn’t as keen and lasted long enough for a photo opportunity and jumped off as fast as I could.

Jenna looking a little nervous
Strike a pose, Tracy!

Poppy puckering up with the crocodile

William Stewart, Crocodile Hunter


What was more fascinating to watch was the crocodiles that kept creeping in and out of the water behind us. The guide / crocodile master / guy with the stick lured one of the crocs out of the water with a live guinea fowl. Attracted by the noise the croc slowly crawled out of the water, creeping closer and closer. Looking pretty hungry the guide threw the guinea fowl towards the croc and it was demolished in a matter of minutes.
Going....

....going.....

GONE!


It was an amazing opportunity to come face to face with the crocs, but a subtle reminder of how dangerous these animals are!

It was great to see the other volunteers and we had a fantastic time at Paga Crocodile Park. It’s made us even more excited to visit Mole National Park in a few weeks time to discover more of Ghana’s wildlife.
  
Jenna


References:
http://www.dearghana.com/attractions/paga-crocodile-pond/
http://www.unitedplanet.org/additional-excursions-ghana


Tuesday, 5 February 2013

Stuff your rucksack!



Stuff your rucksack is a fantastic online forum where charities can register things they need that can be fitted into your bag if you’re heading in their direction. Whether it’s pens, toys, clothing or even car parts – any size or quantity is needed and could make a great difference to a small charity you might be travelling near. As well as this, you may get to meet the charity and the people directly helped by your donations. It’s a no brainer really. Have a look and if you’re planning on going anywhere soon see how you can help all over the world! 

Spare time in Sandema


Although Sandema is not a bustling metropolis,  we've discovered a few things to do to see on a sunny afternoon. The market, which is held every three days in the town centre is a busy little place, filled with all sorts of smells and sounds; mostly of fish and kids shouting “smiley smiley!” meaning ‘white person’.

It’s always an entertaining trip and each visit we've managed to find something new; kola nuts, plantain, flip flops for Poppy, CHOCOLATE! It took some finding but this week (29th Jan) we discovered chocolate for the first time in Sandema. I say chocolate, the one and only box in the market cost 18 Ghana cedis and the chocolate we bought is like cocoa OXO cubes. It’s not Cadbury’s, that’s for sure.

To get to the market we sometimes take a short cut and walk across a dry riverbed that has a sandy bottom. We call this the beach (as the nearest one to us is miles and miles away). Other things Sandema has to offer is the Resource Centre where you can surf the internet for 1 Ghana cedi an hour.

Once you’re hungry from all that surfing, Conifahs is the place to eat. It serves delicious food at amazing prices. One meal cost only 3 Ghana cedis, which is the equivalent to £1.00. Joyce, the cook, can whip up a mean vegetable sauce to compliment a rice and chicken dish; best served with an ice cold Star (the local beer) or an Alvaro (a soft drink we’re all a little bit obsessed with). Perfect for cooling you down after a long day at work meeting with the many chiefs of the Builsa District!

Jenna, Poppy, Festus, and Tracy having dinner at Conifahs
Back at HQ (Team Sandema’s little bungalow, now called The White House) you can visit the local radio station, Radio Builsa, which is a five-minute walk from our house. Take a personal tour around the studio or go on air to speak to nearly one million listeners of the Builsa District. The manager of the station, Ibrahim is keen for us to go on the radio, so expect to hear DJ Poppy and DJ Willy on the air waves soon!

Everyday we discover something new in Sandema. On Thursday (30th Jan) Asiemi, our cleaner took us for a tour of the nearby villages and introduced us to some of the locals and showed us where they live. It was a great opportunity to meet new people and to briefly experience a Builsa’s life at home.  

We look forward to discovering more hidden treasures of Sandema. In the meantime we’ll continue to play ‘Skip Bo!’. If it hasn’t been previously mentioned in this blog, it’s a fun card game (the only one that I know the rules to) that goes down well with a glass (or mug, in our case) of Don Simon Sangria.


With two months to go (our time in Ghana has flown so far!), I’m sure that our ‘leisure’ blog posts will become more and more interesting with Team Sandema adventures. Watch this space…

- Jenna

Our lives in Sandema....


This week has been another busy one! Full days and busy nights make us a little tired but we are still all really enjoying ourselves. Follows is a few posts about general life in Sandema.

Our 'home town', Sandema


Sandema is the home of Builsas. Capital of its district – the Builsa district and located in the Northern part of Ghana, specifically the Upper East Region. Builsa people speak Buli and Saab (also known as the Tuo Zaafi in Hausa) with different kind of soups as their traditional food; mostly eaten at supper or dinner. Sandema, apart from Builsas, is also the home for all kinds of people from different backgrounds from Ghana and other parts of the world. Builsas are peace loving people and friendly to all manner of people or persons irrespective of race. The Builsa landscape can be described as a plain interspersed with few high grounds. The vegetation is purely savannah with few scattered trees. The Builsas have a rich cultural heritage which unites them. They celebrate Feok festival to commemorate their victory over the slave raiders and as a thanks giving sacrifice to their ancestors after every harvest. People of Builsa are always in jubilant mood during the Feok festival. It is lovely being in Sandema. 

- Festus


Our house, in the middle of our street?



We’re staying in a small compound on the grounds of FISTRAD, a stone throw away from work which makes the mornings a little easier. We each have a small bungalow/pod with a double bed and an en-suite bathroom – what luxury! We have a little kitchen slap bang in the middle and finally now have a table and chairs! I think it’s fair to say we’re living the life of it up here in Sandema in our little piece of home. The only downside in Poppy and Will’s room is the smell – no it’s not their feet! We are unfortunately placed above the water system and occasionally we get a rather pungent cabbage smell when the water is running through.

Will and Tracy sat on Tracy's porch...yes, her house is really called "Burger Komittee Stain Hagen" 

Working 9-5 

We’re all very passionate and excited about our project, LIFE – the longer we work on it the more involved we become. We’ve been working hard meeting over 10 chiefs, including the paramount chief of the Builsa District, the District Assembly and Disabled Peoples Organisations (DPO). We have been receiving endless positive feedback for the project from everyone involved and it is progressing well already. 
Meeting the Sandema Naab (in the salmon outfit inbetween Will and Tracy) and his sub-chiefs and elders


The team with members of the District Assembly (the gentleman inbetween Poppy and Jenna was rather forward in his desire to make one of them his wife!)
The team with the President, Gilbert, of the Sandema Disabled People's Organisation
Since meeting with us, the Kadema Chief has already met with his DPO and has promised them that they can be involved in the local Feok on the 9th of February – result! What incredible news that was, I (Poppy) think I speak for everyone when I say we really do feel a part of something special here, something that could really improve the lives of many people with disabilities – and we’re only just getting started!! 

- Poppy

 Meeting Kadema chief was the highlight for me last week. We had already met him quickly at the District Assembly and he had already called us his brother and sisters and was looking forward to seeing us. When visiting he greeted us with a smile again and invited the women to come and sit in the meeting, which only a few chiefs did last week. He was very open to the idea of people with disabilities being involved in the Feok. His community had not yet had its local Feok but he invited us to attend on the 9th February and said he would look into including people with disabilities. It was clear people living with disabilities were included in this community as there was a lady at the meeting with a disability and he invited her to show us her skills of basket weaving and dancing. On Sunday Maxwell our project coordinator said that the Kadema chief had called him and said he had been to see the local disabled people’s organisation. He spoke to them asking how they would like to be involved in the festival and what the problems would be for them being involved. This is excellent news as he is making the steps towards getting disabled people involved. He said that he had simply not thought to include them before but now that we have brought it to his attention he said he would make an active effort to include those with disabilities.   We shall be visiting the Kadema group and Chief again soon to see what happens!
 
- Will

Monday, 4 February 2013

Week One: Willy's Best Bits


Meeting with the District Assembly was my highlight of the week.  We visited a large number of council representatives who all thought the idea of our project was worthwhile and they were all willing to support. This was our first meeting linked with the project and it gave us confidence that this project is achievable. This was the highlight of the week for me as it was unexpected to have full support from all of the Assembly members that we met.